Three days hiking Kosciuszko’s mountain huts

Hiking in the Kosciuszko National Park during the autumn is the perfect time of year to camp in the historical huts and rolling mountain hills. With the perfect balance of moderate temperatures and breathtaking views, the autumn season is the perfect time to embark on an adventure through the park’s rich history and natural beauty.

In March, I embarked on a 48.5km trek along the Geehi Dam Circuit in Kosciusko National Park to visit the Grey Mare and Valentine huts. The hike began at Geehi Dam and immediately gained elevation as it traversed the Grey Mare Range, culminating in an arrival at Grey Mare hut.

The following day, the Valentine Trail led me through a diverse landscape of streams, flowers, and insects, and the opportunity to witness a sunset over the mountainous terrain. Spending the night at Valentine hut allowed for the opportunity to witness the warm hues of dusk enveloping the snow gums.

Overall, this three-day hike serves as an excellent introduction to the Australian high country, and for those interested in the journey, I have also provided a detailed itinerary.

Geehi Dam to Grey Mare Hut (Day 1)

A glimpse of the amazing views along Grey Mare Range
Geehi Dam

The journey begins at the Geehi Dam parking area, which is located a two-hour drive from Jindabyne along the Alpine Way, with a turn off onto a dirt road leading to the dam. It is important to be aware of larger vehicles travelling to and from Geehi Dam during the drive.

To get an early start for the walk, I opted to sleep overnight beside Geehi Dam. Looking over the waters toward the higher mountain tops was building my excitement for the hiking to come over the next several days.

With my backpack packed and eager to begin, I set off early in the morning with my sights set on the distant Grey Mare hut. The hike quickly gains elevation, following fire trails created for maintaining Snowy Hydro’s power lines. After several hours of hiking through lush green forests, the elevation allows for breathtaking views of the surrounding mountain ranges and valleys. Along the ridge of the Grey Mare mountain range, I took a break to enjoy my lunch of salami, hard cheese, and trail mix.

Wild flowers in bloom
The view from Grey Mare Hut
Looking towards Mount Jagungal from Grey Mare Hut

The Grey Mare hut is nestled in the valley between the Grey Mare mountain range and Wesley Mountain, with a view of Mount Jagungal in the distance. At first glance, it may be difficult to spot the hut as it is hidden behind several trees on a hilltop. This high position offers spectacular views of the valleys and streams below.

The Grey Mare hut is a beautiful corrugated iron shelter originally built for mining in the area. Its history and photos can be found on the Kosciuszko Huts Association website. The interior is adorned with tools, bunks, and a fireplace. The wooden floorboards creak as you step on them and a sturdy table provides a welcome spot to unpack and set up camp.

Fire is allowed within the hut’s fireplace, however, care must be taken to keep the fire small. A store of firewood is available beside the hut, which I used to start a small fire. I set up my sleeping mat and bag on a raised wooden sleeping platform. To avoid issues with rats, I hung my food outside, below the roof in a waterproof bag.

As the sun set over the distant mountain ranges, I heated water to cook my dinner and enjoyed a well-deserved cup of tea. For dinner, I had a dehydrated lentil dahl. Sitting on a log, looking over the trees and tall grass blanketed in the warm yellow of the evening, marked the perfect end to the first day of hiking.

Grey Mare Hut to Valentine Hut (Day 2)

A view of Valentine Hut across the Valentine Creek

The second day of the hike, while shorter in distance, proved to be more challenging as it followed the Valentine Trail to Valentine Hut. The trail included multiple creek and river crossings, which slowed down progress as I took off my shoes and gaiters before each crossing. However, after several crossings, I decided to carry on without removing any gear.

Bringing gaiters proved to be a wise decision as the trail was lined with tall grass and a variety of insects. As I hiked through the hills, the trail was constantly alive with insect movement, jumping out of the way as I hiked past. The wildflowers growing in every direction added to the vibrant mountain wildlife experience.

For lunch, I had a second serving of salami, hard cheese and trail mix, which I enjoyed while looking over the Geehi River after making my way up a steep section from the river. The topographical map indicated that from there, the trail to Valentine Hut was mostly flat with a final water crossing over Valentine Creek.

Looking over lower Valentine Creek and where I've come from
Sunset over the snow gums
Crossing Valentine Creek
Warm colours of dusk paint the distant mountains
Valentine Creek as viewed from Valentine Hut

While the charm Grey Mare Hut is in its corrugated iron walls coloured with patina, Valentine Hut charms you with its bright red painted walls adorned with white hearts. Inside there are two triple bunks, a fireplace and a large table with chairs. The windows above the fireplace look over back towards Grey Mare mountain range. The grounds around the hut are lush with green shrubs and the sound of the nearby Valentine Creek.

Before my legs were given too long to develop aches, I set off to see Valentine Falls. I quickly discovered the trail along the creek was heavily overgrown and within 500 metres I was bush-bashing and no longer hiking. The trail conditions did not improve, and as I got to the section of the track that dropped down to the bottom of the falls I decided to appreciate the waterway from a distance and save myself the hike back up the steep climb.

Emerging back at Valentine Hut I was thoroughly exhausted and riddled with scratches from the overgrown trail. A beer and reading a book beside Valentine Creek quickly cooled me off and let me settle into the afternoon. I decided to set up my tent outside the hut, as its smaller size resulted in a warmer sleep. There were several other groups camping in and around the hut. Talking to them and hearing about all the other alternative routes, huts and adventures in the high country got me excited for future trips.

As I sat at the table inside, eating dinner, and watching the sun set over the snow gums through the window, I felt privileged to have the opportunity to hike in such beautiful country.

A sunset view out the hut's windows
Valentine Creek
Valentine Hut

Valentine Hut to Geehi Dam (Day 3)

The trail back to Geehi Dam

My sleep through the night was significantly warmer than my first night, thanks to the smaller air space of my tent as compared to the huts. Although I would have liked to stay wrapped up in my sleeping bag, I had a six-hour drive back to the house I was in the process of moving out of.

I wanted to get an early start, so I quickly packed up my camp and ate some muesli and berries while leaving my tent hanging out to dry. The hike today was predominantly downhill, so the kilometers passed quickly as I took in the beautiful landscapes one last time.

As I descended in altitude, the landscape changed from one of rolling grass hills to one shaded by tall trees, following the waterways back to Geehi Dam. After several hours on the trail, the sight of my car marked the end of my first trip to Kosciuszko National Park.

What a trip it was! Full of amazing views, charming huts, and memories that won’t be forgotten. If you’re interested in undertaking this journey, I have written a detailed itinerary that I followed.

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